When Foraging Went Viral, Chefs Lost the Plot

When Foraging Went Viral, Chefs Lost the Plot

Chef Thierry Brehonnet of Restaurant 1209 in Blonay, Switzerland shows a dried Heracleum Sphondylium, commonly known as giant hogweed or common hogweed. An indelible image has captured the imaginations of diners for the last decade and a half: A chef, tousled hair and a short beard, work pants and galoshes, slowly walks alone through a moss-covered pine forest. He carries an Opinel knife in one hand, a square plastic container in the other. He …